Visiting Batu Caves

If you enjoy this post, please subscribe and share! Don't forget to add the feed service to your contacts so notifications don't end up in your spam folder.

Psychedelic stairway meets Hindu shrine meets Avatar. That about sums up my experience at the spectacular Batu Caves complex just outside Kuala Lumpur.

Why is Batu Caves famous? It's one of the most revered sites for Hindu worship outside India, and its temples and caves make it one of Malaysia's biggest tourist attractions. But what fewer people know is that Batu Caves also a biodiversity hotspot, geological treasure trove and rock climbing haven, with a long and diverse history. There's no guidebook that brings it all together, so hopefully this post will give you a taste of just how unique this place is.

What's covered:

• Sri Venkatachalapathy Swamy Sannadhi Temple & Sri Alarmelmangai Thayar Sannathi Temple
• Sri Hanuman statue & Sri Anjaneyar Temple
• Sri Ganapathi, Sri Sivan & Sri Shakti Temples
• Temple of the Nine Planets (Navagraha Sannathi)
• Sri Murugan statue, Temple Cave, Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple & Sri Murugan Temple
• Thaipusam at Batu Caves
• Ramayana Cave, Cave Villa & Dark Cave
• Science & rock climbing at Batu Caves
• When to visit Batu Caves
• How to get to Batu Caves
• Things to keep in mind

I visited with my sister and her friend, who were over from Canada, and the quick and easy day trip was perfect for their whistlestop tour. As soon as we left the train station we were wowed by the massive limestone hill that houses the caves. My picture does not begin to capture the majesty of the cliffs towering above us, which wouldn't have been out of place on Pandora. 

Sri Venkatachalapathy Swamy Sannadhi Temple & Sri Alarmelmangai Thayar Sannathi Temple

At the entrance, just past the food vendors, we got our first hit of colour - green, pink and blue steps leading up to two rainbow-hued temples: Sri Venkatachalapathy Swamy Sannadhi Temple and Sri Alarmelmangai Thayar Sannathi Temple. 

Sri Venkatachalapathy is another name for Sri Vishnu, who is the preservor and protector of the universe, and one of the principal trinity of Hindu gods. 

Sri Alarmelmangai Thayar is Sri Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and good fortune, and Vishnu's consort.

(Hindu deities can have many names, as well as different names for their different aspects or forms. Additionally, Hindu Tamils - who make up most of the Hindu population in Malaysia - have their own names for these gods. I've tried to include alternative names that might be more widely known to readers. 'Sri', by the way, is an honorific for a Hindu deity.)

[Back to the top]

Sri Hanuman statue & Sri Anjaneyar Temple

A couple of minutes later, we gazed up at the gigantic, green statue of Sri Hanuman, standing 15 m (49 ft) tall. The Hindu monkey god represents courage, strength and self-discipline, and plays a central role in the Ramayana, the famous ancient Indian epic. 

Sri Anjaneyar is another name for Sri Hanuman, and gives its name to the small temple nearby.

Fittingly, there were a number of long-tailed macaques scurrying around near the monkey god's statue. They turned out to be everywhere - watch out for your belongings! 

[Back to the top]

Sri Ganapathi, Sri Sivan & Sri Shakti Temples

A short while later we came across a dazzling building at the foot of the limestone hill, behind a big pond teeming with koi. It was a huge, L-shaped structure housing the Sri Ganapathi, Sri Sivan and Sri Shakti Temples. 

Sri Ganapathi, aka Sri Ganesh, is the elephant-headed god of beginnings, whom devotees pray to before any undertaking. 

His father is Sri Sivan - or Sri Shiva - god of destruction (and part of the trinity mentioned earlier), who has numerous aspects, including Sri Nataraja, lord of the dance. 

Sri Shakti, aka Sri Devi, is mother of the universe and has many forms too, including Sri Parvati, her gentle aspect as wife of Sri Sivan, and Sri Durga, her warrior aspect.

Close up, we could see how ornate the building was. I peeked inside but didn't go in.

[Back to the top]

Temple of the Nine Planets (Navagraha Sannathi)

Across from the Sri Ganapathi/Sivan/Shakti temple complex is the small Temple of the Nine Planets (Navagraha Sannathi), which was under renovation when we were there. 

The navagrahas refer collectively to the nine 'planets' in Hindu astrology, which include the sun, moon, north node of the moon, south node of the moon and the five planets visible to the naked eye (Mars, Mercury, Venus, Jupiter and Saturn) - each under the dominion of a different deity.

[Back to the top]

Sri Murugan statue, Temple Cave, Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple & Sri Murugan Temple

Flanked by the temples we had just seen was the most famous sight at Batu Caves: a flamboyant staircase shimmering up to the mouth of Temple Cave, with a colossal, golden statue of Sri Murugan, Hindu god of war, standing guard beside it.

It's far cry from what the entrance to Temple Cave used to look like.

For most of their existence, the 272 steps were a modest affair. The ones from 1920 were plain wood; two decades later, red-and-white concrete steps replaced them. Then came the technicolour paint job in 2018, which unleashed a social media frenzy - and landed the temple committee in hot water for not getting approval from the National Heritage Department. There's more change ahead: the committee announced plans in January 2024 to build an escalator alongside the steps - a decision which, this time, has avoided controversy.

The statue of Sri Murugan - standing 42.7 m (140 ft) tall - was also added later, in 2006. According to a sign at the base, it's the world's tallest Sri Murugan statue. The Hindu deity is the son of Sri Sivan/Shiva and Sri Shakti/Parvati, and brother of Sri Ganipathi/Ganesh. He holds a special place among Tamil people, who consider him their patron god. 

To get to the foot of the staircase, we passed under a gopuram - an ornate gateway typical of South Indian temple architecture. There was another one at the top.

Climbing the 272 steps to the entrance of Temple Cave - 122 m (400 ft) above ground - was easier than it sounds. They're a little steep though, which might be a challenge if you're afraid of heights or suffer from vertigo. My sister's friend, unfortunately, wasn't able to get above the first few flights of steps.

 We shared a moment with Sri Murugan as twilight fell.

Approaching Temple Cave, I had another Avatar moment as I looked up at the limestone formations and vegetation hanging from the cliffs high above the entrance.

Inside, the cave seemed enormous, with the ceiling - reportedly more than 100 m (328 ft) high - stretching far above us.

Temple Cave - also called Cathedral Cave - is the largest cave here, as well as the main tourist attraction and main place of worship. There's a fascinating tale behind this cave, and the Batu Caves complex, reflecting Malaysia's rich and diverse history.

Meaning 'rock caves' in Malay, Batu Caves gets its name from the nearby river Sungai Batu. The limestone is 400 million years old - but not, as you'll often read, the caves, which were formed about 100 million years ago (link opens a PDF). 

Nobody knows when the caves were first discovered, but the indigenous Besisi people (now called the Mah Meri) used them as temporary shelters when hunting. In the 1860's, Chinese immigrants started collecting bat guano from the caves to use as fertiliser for their vegetables. It wasn't until American naturalist William Temple Hornaday heard about the caves from locals - while elephant-hunting in 1878 - that they became widely known.

The next chapter of the caves' history belongs to K. Thamboosamy Pillai, Malaysian businessman, civil servant and leader of the Tamil community. As the story goes, Thamboosamy dreamed that Sri Shakti asked him to build a shrine to her son, Sri Murugan, at Batu Caves. When the merchant scouted the area, he saw that the entrance to Temple Cave was shaped like Sri Murugan's spearhead, inspiring him to build a temple there in 1891.

Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple (Sri Velayuthar Temple)

The temple that Thamboosamy built has two names. The official Facebook page calls it Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple (as do most other sources), while the sign outside the temple calls it Sri Velayuthar Temple. Subramaniar is another name for Sri Murugan, as is Velayuthar.

A grand, vividly painted tower marks the entrance to the temple.

Sri Murugan's mount is a peacock, which is why the temple is adorned with peacock motifs.

Sri Valli Deivanai Murugan Temple (Sri Murugan Temple)

Behind the main temple is a short flight of steps. At the top is Sri Valli Deivanai Murugan Temple - though several sources I've seen simply call it Sri Murugan Temple. Sri Valli and Sri Deivanai refer to Sri Murugan's consorts. Above the temple is an opening in the roof of the cave, allowing natural light to pour in.

This is a smaller, simpler shrine than the main temple, but the light from above gave it an ethereal look.

Attribution: Jorge Láscar from Melbourne, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

[Back to the top]

Thaipusam at Batu Caves

Thaipusam is a festival commemorating the day Sri Murugan received his divine spear from his mother, in order to vanquish a demon army. Hindu Tamils have celebrated Thaipusam at Batu Caves since 1892, and the scale of the three-day celebration is like nowhere else in the world. In 2024 it attracted a staggering two million people. 

Preparations start on the eve of Thaipusam: the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple in KL - also founded by Thamboosamy, and dedicated to Sri Murugan - bathes and decorates a consecrated statue of the deity, while crowds start to converge at both the KL and Batu Caves temples. 

Later that night, a silver chariot departs from KL, taking the statues of Sri Murugan and his consorts 15 km (9 mi) to Batu Caves - a journey with multiple stops which could take 16 hours. A spectacular procession of some 120,000 people accompany the chariot, many of them walking barefoot as a symbol of their devotion, wearing yellow (Sri Murugan's favourite colour), carrying paal kudam (milk pots) on their heads as offerings, smashing coconuts to symbolise the breaking of the ego, and chanting, "Vel! Vel!" (referring to Sri Murugan's spear).

Some carry a kavadi, which literally means a carrying pole, but more broadly a physical burden. It's a structure that comes in many shapes, sizes and styles, sometimes enormous and heavy (up to 100 kg!), and often elaborately decorated with flowers and peacock feathers. The most fanatical devotees undergo extreme piercings with rods or hooks to carry or pull their kavadi, often entering a trance during the process. People carry kavadi for various reasons, such as to ask forgiveness, fulfil a vow, offer thanks or seek assistance. And they have to undergo a rigorous regime to free the body and mind from earthly pleasures, for as long as 48 days before Thaipusam.

Adding to the heady atmosphere are urumi melam troupes pounding out a fast-paced form of Tamil folk music with drums and cymbals. The rhythm encourages frenzied dancing by kavadi bearers, and can induce trance-like states in devotees.

The silver chariot reaches Batu Caves the next afternoon, and the statues take up residence on a sacred platform, where devotees can receive blessings. The arriving pilgrims complete the final part of their arduous journey, climbing the 272 steps to Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple. There, they offer prayers, while priests tend to kavadi bearers - sprinkling consecrated ash on skewers and hooks before removing them - and pour milk offerings over Sri Murugan's statue. Later that day, following additional ceremonies, the chairman of the KL temple officially opens the Thaipusam festival.  

The next day is Thaipusam Day, which begins with a blessing ceremony at the river. Devotees continue to arrive, making their way up to the temple, and religious practices take place throughout the day. There are also traditional music and dance performances, and hundreds of vendors selling vegetarian Indian food and religious accessories.

On the third day, following special prayers, the statues go back into the silver chariot for their return journey, accompanied by another procession. Ceremonies and prayers at the KL temple conclude the festival.

[Back to the top]

Ramayana Cave, Cave Villa & Dark Cave

We did the 'highlights' version of Batu Caves, spending most of our time at Temple Cave. But there are other caves that are (or were) open to the public.

Ramayana Cave is situated on the far left of the limestone hill (when facing the steps to Temple Cave). It has colourful dioramas and a huge sleeping statue from the Ramayana epic. (Read about this ancient poem, which is one of the most important and famous texts in Hindu literature.)  

Cave Villa is apparently privately owned. It's located at the bottom of the hill, and accessed via the elevated walkway in front of the Sri Ganapathi/Sivan/Shakti Temples. It features a collection of Hindu statues and paintings, and hourly dance performances. There's also a small zoo (you might want to read some reviews about how the animals are kept).

Dark Cave is the longest cave system at Batu Caves, and parts of it used to be open to the public, but it closed in 2019 for reasons unknown. The main entrance was at step 204 of the staircase up to Temple Cave.

[Back to the top]

Science & rock climbing at Batu Caves

Natural history hotspot

Batu Caves is hugely important to scientists for its cave ecosystem and biodiversity. There are hundreds of plant species here, as well as many species of birds, bats, butterflies, reptiles, amphibians and snails - some new, some rare and some found only at Batu Caves. 

With more than 2 km of passageways and six caverns, Dark Cave has attracted many researchers over the years. But there are a total of 30 caves in the complex - five discovered just in 2023 - with new areas yet to be explored.  

Rock climbing haven

Batu Caves is apparently one of the best rock climbing venues in Southeast Asia, with 10 crags and more than 250 sport routes, as well as trad and multipitch options. I haven't climbed here yet, nor have I climbed on limestone before, but I hear it's a bit more slippery than granite.

Gua Damai Extreme Park ('Damai Cave Extreme Park'), which is on the other side of the hill from the cave temples, manages more than 100 sport routes, including the popular Damai Wall. You won't read this on the park's website (which only shows package deals and courses), but the entrance fee is only RM10 (£1.78) for non-Malaysians (RM5 for locals). It would be best to call the park to find out what equipment they require you to have, as well as what you can rent from them.

There are other popular crags that aren't managed by the park - and which may have access and maintenance issues. Going with someone who's familiar with the area is always a good idea.

Besides climbing, you can try other activities at Gua Damai, including caving, hiking, ziplining and base jumping.

[Back to the top]

When to visit Batu Caves

What time of year to visit Batu Caves?

KL is very humid, but the driest months are January–February and June–August. There will still be thundershowers pretty much every day, usually in the late afternoon, but they'll be brief. The average temperature during these months is around 26 C (78–79 F) - although there can be heat waves earlier in the year.  

What time of day to visit Batu Caves?

It's best to go early in the morning, when it's cooler and less crowded. Keep in mind that the temples close for a while in the middle of the day, and that Ramayana Cave and Cave Villa close in the evenings. I don't know if the lighting inside the caves is better during the day, but when we went, in the evening, we found that the bright lighting inside Temple Cave somewhat marred our viewing experience and photos.  

How long does it take to visit Batu Caves?

Our 'highlights' visit took about an hour. Leave yourself three hours or so if you want to see the other caves, visit the temples and buy souvenirs. There are also a good number of restaurants in the area, with many vegetarian options, if you want to have lunch afterwards.

When is Batu Caves open?

There's no official place to find information about visiting Batu Caves. Sri Maha Mariamman Temple in KL manages the complex, but its website doesn't have visitor information. The Facebook page for Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple (the sister temple at Temple Cave), doesn't show this either (it does say the temple is always open but I'm not sure about this, given that the cave isn't open 24/7). It also shows a web address for Batu Caves but that's no longer functional. 

Online searches, meanwhile, bring up conflicting and erroneous information - even travel companies and Tourism Selangor will tell you, for example, that Dark Caves is still open! I did a quick scan of online sources just to see what the general consensus is; you could use this as a rough guide if you don't plan to go particularly early or late, and don't need precise information.

• Temple Cave: I've seen 6 am–9 pm & 7 am–9 pm. 
• Ramayana Cave: I've seen 9 am–6.30 pm, 9 am–6 pm & 8.30 am–6 pm. 
• Cave Villa: there's a Facebook page (but I'm not sure it's official, and the website isn't functioning) that says opening hours are 8 am–5 pm. Elsewhere, I've seen 8.30 am–5.30 pm, and that the hourly dance shows begin at 10.30 am. 
• Temples: the consensus seems to be that opening times are the same as for Temple Cave. I've also read that the temples close in the middle of the day (one source just said they close at 1 pm for a lunch break; another said they close from 1 pm–4 pm).

You could try calling the main temple (the number is on their Facebook page) to get accurate information for the day you plan to visit. Or you could try Selayang Municipal Council, which manages the district that Batu Caves is in. 

Is Batu Caves free?

• Temple Cave: entrance is free.
• Ramayana Cave: sources consistent cite a RM5 entrance fee.
• Cave Villa: Sources consistently cite an entrance fee of RM15 for non-Malaysians & RM7 for Malaysians.

Visiting during Thaipusam

Thaipusam falls on the first day of the full moon of the Tamil month of Thai, which occurs between 14 January and 15 February. In 2025, it falls on 11 February. Based on the 2024 schedule, this means the procession would leave KL on the 9th, arriving at Batu Caves on the 10th, and the festival would close on the 12th. From the advice I've seen online, it's best to go as early as 6 am as it'll be hotter and more crowded later in the day.

[Back to the top]

How to get to Batu Caves from KL

Where is Batu Caves?

Batu Caves is 13 km north of KL. It's part of the town of Batu Caves, in the district of Gombak in Selangor state. 

How to get to Batu Caves by train

KTM Komuter connects KL to Batu Caves. It stops at various stations in KL, including the main train station, KL Sentral (don't confuse it with Kuala Lumpur Station as I did!). The trip from KL Sentral only takes about 30 minutes.

The first service from KL Sentral is 6.58 am on weekdays and 7.53 am on weekends and public holidays, and the last service from Batu Caves is 10.10 pm, every day. Do check the timetable before you go, to get the most up-to-date information.

The return fare from KL Sentral to Batu Caves is just RM5.20 (93p). You can buy your tickets at the station, but if you really want to, you can get them online too (just make sure you select 'Komuter Klang Valley' and not 'ETS/Intercity', which is much more expensive).  

How to get to Batu Caves by bus

Your best bet is the 173 bus route (formerly U6), operated by Rapid KL, the public transportation system in metro KL. It will take you straight to Batu Caves in as little as half an hour (according to Google Maps), but a lot depends on traffic.

If you're in central KL, the start of the route - 'KL117 BSN Lebuh Ampang' - will probably be most convenient, as it's close to major train stations (3 minutes' walk from Masjid Jamek station on the LRT line and 13 minutes' walk from Pasar Seni station on the LRT/MRT lines). But you can look up the route on Google Maps or Moovit to see which stops are closest to you and what the schedule is. The stop at Batu Caves is 'SL28 Padang Awam Batu Caves (Opp)'. 

Rapid KL doesn't provide a fare calculator for buses, but this article says it costs RM3-4 (54-71p) to get from the bus hub in KL to Batu Caves. I don't know if cash is accepted on board (it hasn't been for any of the buses I've taken in KL) so be sure to bring along a transport card, which you can pick up at any train station.

Rapid KL operates other buses that will get you to Batu Caves, but they aren't direct and will take much longer. Private intercity bus operators also run services to Batu Caves; the buses will be more comfortable but you'll pay at least RM20 (£3.56) each way. 

How to get to Batu Caves by car

Grab is the equivalent of Uber in Malaysia. The time and cost will obviously depend on where you're coming from, but as an example, the trip from KL Sentral to Batu Caves takes about 20 minutes, depending on traffic, and could cost as little as RM18 (£3.21). Note that the cost can be significantly higher depending on demand, especially if it's raining. You can also get a taxi from KL Sentral, which should cost about the same as a Grab. 

If you're driving, there's a public car park near the caves, which costs RM2 (36p).

[Back to the top]

Things to keep in mind

• Dress modestly, as Batu Caves is a religious site. I've read that you can borrow or buy saris at the entrance, but to be safe, bring along something to cover your shoulders and knees.
• Remove your shoes before entering a temple.
• Avoid carrying food as the macaques may relieve you of it! And make sure they don't abscond with your bags, wallets or phones.

[Back to the top]

Enjoyed this post? Never miss out on future posts by subscribing and sharing! Please add the feed service to your contacts so notifications don't end up in your spam folder.